Discover La Routo, the historic 500km hiking trail from France to Italy

As the holiday brochures start arriving in letterboxes all over the Hexagon, serious hikers are eying up the challenge of La Routo, a 500km walking path leading from the Camargue all the way over the Alps into Italy.

From the 11th Century onwards, shepherds walked their herds from the dry plains of Provence through the Alpine Larche Pass and the Stura Valley to the lush Italian pastures of Piedmont. 

This transhumance was called la routo which is Occitan for 'the route/road'. At one time 50-60,000 animals made the annual trip on foot. Today, most are transported by lorry. 

There are, however, around 25,000 head of sheep whose shepherds walk them to closer pastures. They set off in the first half of June, walking on average 200kms in two weeks. These journeys are very regulated; herds have to be preceded and followed by vehicles equipped with warning lights, while accompanying humans must wear high-vis jackets.

Museums and attractions along the way

There is no need to be part of a transhumance though. Anyone can walk La Routo (aka the GR69), which is signposted all along the route. 

Each stage is described in detail on the website larouto.eu so that hikers can plan exactly what sections to walk. Along the way, walkers will come across herds of sheep, goats and cattle, very often protected by white sheepdogs called dogou. 

The advice is to remain very calm, do not approach the herd or the dogs, keep your own dog on a lead, do not stare fixedly at a dog, and do not run away.

There are lots of museums, activities, and attractions along La Routo, as well as accommodation and restaurants. From shopping for the finest Merino wool clothing to interactive activities illustrating rural history, there is plenty to do. 

There are lots of fêtes and foires to enjoy, even very early in the year. Saint-Martin-de-Crau holds an annual Foire de la Saint-Valentin et du Mérinos on the second Wednesday of February.

'I would advise anyone to do this walk'

Franck Sarda has walked the whole route, in two goes, breaking it up at Digne-les-Bains.

"The first half is more or less flat but the second was more demanding," he says. 

"The Italian part was much more difficult, steeper terrain and much higher altitude because you are in the Alps. I did it alone, and there was almost no one else. I saw a few walkers, but it was almost always empty.

"There is less infrastructure than on the St-Jacques-de-Compostelle hike. I did it with a little tent and camped each night. On the first part there are hotels and B&Bs, because there is an established tourism industry. But on the second part there are cheaper gîtes and hostels.

"I love hiking. I am a sheep farmer from near St-Etienne. I left my dog at the farm because he was needed there. I love pastoral life, traditions, the transhumance. I accompanied a herd of sheep for a week of the second section. It was real, necessary work, nothing to do with tourist folklore. We weren't there to do that. The fêtes and festivals amuse tourists but that is folklore which is not the same as work, but it reminds people of tradition and why they should respect the shepherds, the herds and the gods.

"I would advise anyone to do this walk. It is beautiful and historic, but I would prefer to do a new one than repeat it because I'm keen on walking. The Routo has fountains, benches and trees for shade for the comfort of the animals because so many did the transhumance. This makes it very nice for walkers."

Further information here.