Discover Lyon: France's gastronomy capital and cultural gem

Lyon is beautiful, well-heeled and rightly pleased with itself. It isn't the most dynamic of French cities, but it is tranquil, secure and predictable. It has a stunning historic centre, a luxuriously-appointed 19th century cathedral overlooking the entire city, and entire districts of elegant 18th and 19th buildings. The extensive Tête d'Or park includes a boating pond, pony rides, sports areas, a mini-train, a rose garden, a small zoo, several cafés and ice-cream stalls, and a botanical garden. 

It has well-funded public services, it is clean and efficiently organised. Even the university students tend to be well-off. Of course, like in all large cities some areas are less privileged than others, but it doesn't have the levels of deprivation seen in the worst parts of Paris or Marseille. Lyon and Marseille compete to be France's second city after Paris. Marseille has a larger population so it should by rights wear the crown, but Lyon is richer and closer to Paris. 

Often nicknamed the 'Gateway to the South', Lyon's geographical location on the confluence of the rivers Rhône and Saône, close to Switzerland, Germany, and Italy has always made it a trading centre. During World War Two it was the departure point for trains deporting people from France to Nazi death camps. Today the city is a bustling hub for high-tech industries including biotechnology, software development, video games, and internet services. 

Lyon is heaven for foodies

Since 1935, Lyon has been called the 'Capitale Mondiale de la Gastronomie’ (world gastronomy capital): the Rhône département is home to around 20 Michelin starred restaurants, the food market in the Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse is an astonishing sight, and Lyon's 'bouchon' restaurants – serving traditional Lyonnaise cuisine – are iconic.

Eugénie Brazier (1895-1977) was a ground-breaking Michelin-starred chef. Her emblematic restaurant, Mère Brazier, really put 'bouchons Lyonnais' on the culinary map, and is still open today. She trained Paul Bocuse (1926-2018), who is considered to have been one of the greatest chefs of the 20th century. In and around Lyon, many of his restaurants are still open, including 'L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges', and his four brasseries, Le Nord, Le Est, Le Sud, and Le Ouest. 

Les Halles Paul Bocuse is an indoor market dedicated to fine food. There are no cheap muddy potatoes here – everything is beautifully presented, including the fruit and vegetables. Cheese, charcuterie, fine wines, snails, frogs' legs, figs stuffed with foie gras… they have everything a gourmet could ever desire.

For a more down-to-earth and affordable experience, head up to Croix-Rousse any morning except Mondays. (The market closes at 13:30.) On Tuesdays there is a non-food section. It is busiest at the weekends, especially on Sundays when the crowds make navigation with a pushchair or a dog very difficult. The Croix-Rousse area is home to the Boho set, and has a wealth of fashionable restaurants and bars to enjoy once you've finished going round the market.

Bouchons are easy to spot with their red and white checked tablecloths, and wooden seats. Check the menu before entering, however, because vegetarian/vegan options are thin on the ground. Bouchons specialise in offal, an offal lot of offal in fact. And if you don't like offal, there's steak. Bouchons are not exactly vegetarian-friendly. You might find 'quenelles Lyonnaises' which are a sort of fish flavoured dumpling, but even they often contain some meat. No matter, there are plenty of Indian/Pakistani and Asian restaurants offering vegetarian and vegan dishes. 

In a city stuffed with restaurants, Brasserie Georges remains one of the best-loved. Open since 1836, it still brews beer on the premises and sells its signature 'choucroute' (sauerkraut). The massive dining hall is as spectacular as ever and tables get booked up weeks in advance. But if you bowl up at around 20:45 you can usually get seated, even without a reservation. 

Arguably the most richly decorated café-restaurant in Lyon is the Grand Café des Négociants, with its gilded ceiling, fabulous mirrors and chandeliers. Sit inside to enjoy the decor. Their set lunch is a reasonable €35 but you can always just drop in for coffee, tea or a cocktail.