Essoyes: a French village that leaves a lasting Impression

In the east of France, 2½ hours southeast of Paris, the village of Essoyes sits on the Ource river. 

Named as a Petite cité de caractère, it has plenty of charm thanks to the half-timbered houses and backdrop of forests, hills and vineyards, and its 711 residents have plenty of space: its population density is only 20 people per square kilometre, a fraction of the national average, which is 107. 

The village will forever be linked to the painter, Pierre-Auguste Renoir (1841-1919), whose model (and wife), Aline Charigot, was born here. After several visits, Renoir bought Aline a house in Essoyes in 1896, and the couple and their three sons spent summers here for about thirty years, creating many happy memories. At the bottom of the garden, Renoir set up a painting studio, making the most of the light and colour of this particular setting, painting family scenes and landscapes. 

His son, Jean Renoir, once commented, “For me, there is no other village in the whole world that can compare.” High praise indeed!

The Centre Culturel Renoir houses a permanent exhibition featuring the life and work of Renoir, including an audiovisual show tracing his artistic journey and temporary exhibitions on various themes. 

You can also visit the family home, with rooms furnished and decorated in the style of the period, taking you back in time to the height of the Impressionist era. 

If you follow the path out of the house and through the garden, you will find the artist’s studio, built in 1906 so that he could work without disturbing – or being disturbed by – his children. 

The glazed roof ensured plenty of light and being in the space is a real treat for any art lovers – you can feel the atmosphere that inspired many of Renoir’s famous works. 

History and architecture

Its origins go back several centuries, to at least the Celtic period, although the earliest written traces date from 1084 AD. 

Essoyes had the honour of being granted permission to hold markets and a village fair. This privilege led to a wooden-framed market hall being built in 1503, which was then rebuilt in the 1800s, keeping the wooden structure and open sides. The structure, updated over the years, is now the village community centre or salle polyvalente. 

In the 1500s, Essoyes was home to several watermills making use of the river to produce paper, an activity that flourished until the late 1700s. The village was all but wiped out by a fire on March 12, 1763, as most of the houses were wood-framed with thatched roofs, so only a few stone-built houses were spared. 

Inextricably linked with Essoyes are the Hériots, a successful family who helped to found the Galeries du Louvre in Paris. Zacharie Olympe Hériot, known as Commandant Hériot, was born in the village in 1833, making his career in the army before becoming a businessman and philanthropist. 

In 1890 he bought a property and commissioned a chateau, which was built between 1890 and 1892 and was later used as a military hospital in World War One and for military prisoners in World War Two. 

While you’re here

If you have time to visit the cemetery, you’ll be able to pay your respects to Renoir, his wife and two of their sons, all of whom chose to be buried in this village. 

You should also take a stroll along the quayside, admiring the river and the light on the water, perhaps taking time for an apéritif – after all, Essoyes is in the heart of the Champagne region!