Generally very few gardens are open for visits in winter and, while that is understandable, it is a shame.
Winter is the perfect time to admire the framework of a garden without the upholstery of leaves and flowers. You can admire the tracery of branches, see the architecture of the trees and shrubs.
Imagine a bright, cold day, seed heads and leaves rimed with sparkling frost, hedges dark against a blue sky or a misty morning in chateaux gardens, strolling parterres with a touch of Gothic romance.
There are also special illuminations for winter in various locations around the country.
Illuminations at two Paris venues
At the Domaine national de Saint-Cloud (92), which has ‘Remarkable Garden’ status, there will be the third annual ‘Lumières en Seine’.
Running from November 14 until January 11, from 17:00 to 23:00, the immersive interactive trail is about 2km long with lights, music, floodlit sculptures and installations.
There are ‘chalets gourmands’ (food shacks) along the route with hot and cold drinks, snacks and a magnificent carousel.
Although the organisers say the route is passable (but difficult) with a pushchair, they advise the use of a sling or backpack as there are some pebbly or gravelled sections and a few slopes – Saint-Cloud is a large natural park with a forest and water features.
You need to book tickets (adults €20, children €16) and entry is through La Grille Clémenceau. You need to arrive by public transport as there is no onsite parking.
The Jardin des Plantes in Paris also has illuminations running from November 12 to January 18 from 18:00 to 22:00.
This year marks the seventh edition of the event, showcasing beautiful animals and plants from four continents.
Tickets are €21 for adults.
300 world-famous topiary in the Périgord
In the heart of the Périgord, the gardens of 17th century Manoir d’Eyrignac were completely redone in 1965.
They have 300 world-famous topiary, sculptures and parterres in yew, box, hornbeam and ivy.
Eyrignac has been opening its gates to the public since 1987.
The gardens are open in the winter every day from 10:30-12:30 and 14:30 until dusk.
From December 20 until January 4, the garden will be decorated for Christmas.
You don’t need to book in advance although it can be cheaper. Prices are reduced in winter and dogs are admitted if on leads.
At the end of an avenue of majestic sombre hornbeams there is a Chinese pagoda with a verdigris roof, vividly contrasted against its red lacquered woodwork.
Winter’s low sun will cast enormous shadows of the geometric-shaped topiary: cones, spheres, cylinders, pyramids and spirals are combined in complex patterns.
Elsewhere in the gardens, in a less formal setting, the gardeners have created a topiary farmyard of ducks and geese, a dog, sheep, a squirrel, a peacock, chickens and rabbits.
Although there is a restaurant and tea rooms on site, sadly they are both closed in the winter.
Innovation and tradition Touraine
The gardens (and there are many) at Château Villandry are open all year but if you want to visit the chateau too you will need to go after November 28 (excepting Christmas Day) when you can see all the Christmas greenery festooning the interiors, from the dining room to the bedrooms in their special exhibition ‘A Noël, la Nature s’invite au château!’.
In the formal kitchen gardens you can see ornamental cabbages and leeks, and wander through parterres, separated by clipped hedges, which from above look like a huge pieced quilt.
There have been gardens since the Renaissance at Villandry but at the beginning of the 20th century they were redesigned by Joachim Carvallo, who blended innovation with tradition to create his sumptuous masterpieces.
You can get a sense of the scale of it by scrolling through their Instagram or for more information.
Adults €8.50 (€14 with chateau entrance), under 8s visit for free.
Rare aquatic plants in Lyon
In Lyon, in the middle of the park ‘Tête d’Or’, a greenhouse was constructed in 1888 to house the South American (Victoria amazonica) waterlily.
The first of its kind in France, it was the pride of Lyon’s botanical garden, one of the largest municipal gardens in France.
Its leaves are so big that rainforest deer can stand on them. The specimen at Kew was famously photographed with a rather sulky Victorian child sitting on it, complete with hair bow and pinafore.
In 1982, to improve its growing conditions, a network of metallic veins, mirroring those of the underside of the lily itself were added to the roof.
Now there are more than 150 aquatic plants including Egyptian lotus, star lotus and prickly waterlily.
Open every day from 9:00 until 16:30, with the outdoor park remaining open until 17:30.
3000 species growing in Nice’s botanic garden
In Nice, the exceptionally temperate climate means you can enjoy the city’s botanical gardens all year round – the tropical and Mediterranean plants don’t stop flowering.
Created in 1983, with over 3,000 species it covers an area of 3.5 hectares. You can reserve a place on a free guided tour which lasts about 90 minutes.
The gardens hold national collections of sages and of agaves.
Closed on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day, the gardens are otherwise open from 8:00 until 17:00.
Free parking and free entry but no dogs.
