Sardines on toast: one of life’s simple pleasures

A renowned French chef, no stranger to a Michelin star or two, once told me that when he rustles up meals at home on rare nights off, he never conjures up the kind of fancy dishes that his restaurant kitchen sends out to well-heeled customers every day.

“You cannot go to the opera every day,” he said. Instead, chez lui he opts for the simplest of pleasures: lashings of top-quality salted butter from Brittany on fresh baguette simple, a quick soupe au pistou or even a can of the very best cassoulet that money can buy. He was no snob when it came to ready-made meals.

I was reminded of this ethos during a recent period of searingly warm weather, when the mere idea of turning on a gas hob or oven to cook something hot brought me out in cold sweats. Much more sensible, I figured, to just open a tin of something very nice to enjoy cold, without the faff and fuss.

So I opened the store cupboard and reached for a tin of sardines. As with all French conserves, from jams to anchovies, pâtés to petits pois, you get what you pay for – so by upping your budget just a little the taste rewards increase exponentially. 

This particular tiny boîte de sardines revealed just five or six glistening silver fish fillets, lined up with precision and care in their metal box. They were like little jewels.

I pinched them out one by one and laid them on buttered sourdough toast from my local artisan boulanger, squished them down, and added a squeeze of lemon juice and a drizzle of olive oil. As evening meals go, it was neither substantial nor extravagant, but it was heavenly.

The conserves de poissons market in France is big business – most recent figures show sales of canned fish reached €1.38 billion between February 2024 and February 2025. Interestingly, the consumption of canned fish is highest in western France (where production is centred) and the Paris region, two areas that account for nearly 49% of total sales.

Visit your local hypermarché and the range of sardines, mackerel and tuna offered is mind-boggling. Look for the blue MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) ecolabel, the globally recognised certification for wild-caught seafood from sustainable fisheries that minimise environmental impact and maintain healthy fish populations. Buy the best and it is a little like going to the opera.

Gadget inspector

A summertime scoop: mussels on the barbecue

The French are so keen on cooking mussels (moules) on the barbecue that they even have a bespoke utensil for it. This large scoop, made from stainless steel, is perfectly practical for handling large quantities of mussels. Afterwards, soak for a few minutes in water with a splash of lemon juice.
Price, €29.

Now available

White bean wonder: Vendée speciality spread

Vendée company Maison Hormé has launched two new spreads that showcase the department’s lauded white bean, the Mogette de Vendée PDO. They champion a plant-based approach centred on flavour, without seeking to replicate meat products. Choose from green olive and capers and dried tomato with hazelnuts.

Price, €4.90.