Warm weather brings flowers to the trees and campervans to the roads of France, usually travelling just that bit more slowly than drivers behind would like, and blocking the view ahead with vast backsides of white plastic.
For their owners, they are a little piece of portable paradise.
France has a long history of mobile homes and vans that have been converted for holidays. However, the Covid-19 pandemic saw a surge in their popularity as people sought more autonomy, outdoor travel, flexibility and off-the-beaten-track experiences.
The market was estimated to be worth €1.5billion in 2024.
The industry even has its own annual trade fairs, including Le Salon des Véhicules de Loisirs at the Parc des Expositions de Paris-Le Bourget. This year it takes place from September 26 to October 4.
Getting a campervan in France
Called camping-cars in France, the market is split into fourgons (vans) with a large car-sized van chassis and simple accommodation, going up to the larger motorhomes – which can be as sumptuous as your budget allows.
French manufacturers to look out for include Rapido, Pilote, Fleurette and Chausson.
For those not yet ready to splash out on their own vehicle, a growing number of firms offer rentals, from short-term hires of a few days or weeks to longer-term leasing options. .
Both Avis and Hertz (through its Trois Soleils brand), for example, rent campervans, with prices starting from around €120 a day.
There are even online platforms, similar to Airbnb, where owners can rent out their campervans to strangers.
Prices are often cheaper than from the big companies (around €40 a day for an old Volkswagen converted van, for example) but do not expect the same levels of service.
French firm Yescapa was a pioneer. Hapee, also French, is another popular platform.
With the popularity of camping-cars has come an increased risk of theft. Those worth between €60,000-€120,000 are at particular risk, according to a recent report by French vehicle recovery company Coyote Secure, with incidences of theft up 30% in one year.
Camping-car licences
To drive a camping-car in France, a simple Category B driving licence will suffice if the total weight of the vehicle is under 3.5 tonnes. Almost all camping-cars and vans fall under this limit with four people on board.
If your camping-car exceeds 3.5 tonnes – which heavily laden vehicles may – you need a Category C (lorry) or C1 licence.
Police reality shows in France regularly feature gendarmes weighing camping-cars – and the domestic arguments that ensue as families decide which items of luggage to sacrifice.
The weight of camping-cars also means that most are fitted with heavy-duty tyres for safety reasons, which are necessarily more expensive than tyres fitted on lighter vans.
Where to park
In theory, camping-cars in the 3.5 tonne category can be parked like any other car. In practice, things are a bit more complicated.
When parking along a road, for example, the size of a camping-car means that drivers may be restricted by rules in the Code de la Route preventing traffic or visibility from being impeded.
Most free street parking in France also has time limits set by communes. Seven days is common, and camping-cars have to respect these rules.
In public car parks, obstacles include height restrictions, fitting within tight bays, and, in some areas, an outright ban on camping-cars.
The latter is usually limited to tourist zones such as seafronts, where municipalities have grown tired of lines of campervans spoiling the view.
If this is the case, signs should make it clear which areas are affected, and most municipalities compensate by offering alternative parking in a different part of town.
Rates for these vary, with extras – such as electricity hook-up – charged on top.
Note that ‘parking’ ends and ‘camping’ officially begins when exterior furniture, such as tables, chairs and sunshades, are placed outside the vehicle.
Of course, finding a campsite with a pleasant, dedicated pitch for camping-cars is nicer, if more expensive.
There are also hundreds of official aires for camping-cars across the country, mainly run by municipalities.
Michelin publishes a map especially for campervan and motorhome drivers to show the location of these aires and campings. See the Carte Michelin 830, priced €8.95.
They usually have toilets and showers, as well as facilities to empty waste water tanks and to fill up with clean water.
Sometimes they are more basic – supermarket car parks, for example, may provide facilities to empty toilets and connect to fresh water, without allowing overnight stays.
Useful apps for camping-cars
There are a number of apps offering help to find suitable stops, with up-to-date information on the type of amenities at each site.
Popular ones include France Passion, Camping-Car Park and Searchforsites. Ask other camping-car owners and look on forums for further recommendations.
Some apps will also highlight the nearest filling stations. Camping-cars can guzzle a lot of fuel: 12 litres per 100km is not unusual.
As with cars, the cheapest prices are usually found at supermarkets and hypermarkets, and the most expensive on motorways.
And do not forget motorway tolls. Vehicles higher than two metres are subject to a different rate to cars, which is usually between one-and-a-half to two times more expensive.
All the more reason to stick to the pretty departmental roads – but be considerate of other motorists behind you!
