The battlefields around Verdun
are so vast that as a visitor it
can be difficult to know where
to start. The tourist office
runs guided tours which are excellent if you have limited time, but
want to see the maximum possible.
The battle of Verdun was one of the
longest in history. It lasted 302 days,
from February 21 to December 18, 1916.
During that time, 714,231 people died,
and 1,250,000 people were injured. The
battle lines at the end were very similar
to those at the beginning. At enormous
human cost and suffering, the French had
repulsed the ferocious German offensive.
Around 260 square miles of the battlefield
is now designated as a Red Zone. It is off
limits because it is still contaminated by
unexploded ordnance and is the burial
site of so many soldiers. The ferocity of
the fighting meant that people were often
blown into smithereens and their remains
sank into the mud and disappeared.
Signs ask people not to picnic or play ball
games there.
Verdun itself has many commemorative
monuments. Le Soldat du Droit is
dedicated to André Thome, a politician
who volunteered to serve in the French
army. The Monument à la 69e Division
d'Infanterie is close to the monument to
the 40e Division d’Infanterie. There is also
a memorial to the 70,000 Muslim soldiers
who died fighting for France at Verdun.
The Wall of the Israelites at Fleury-devant-
Douaumont is dedicated to the Jews who
fought and died in World War One.
The Memorial to the 137th Regiment is
particularly touching. It marks the spot
where an entire regiment perished.
Cemeteries
and forts
The battlefield is still covered in
strategically placed forts. Some are
open to the public but many are
not. The Fort de Douaumont is the
largest, and can be visited. Note the
red lines on the walls, which mark the
reinforced sections built to withstand a
direct hit. Exploring it gives a chilling
idea of what life and death must have
looked like within these cold, damp
walls. Outside, it is possible to ramble
across the top of the fort to the look
out posts, and to see the deep ditches
which protected the fort.
The beautifully maintained
Faubourg-Pavé National Cemetery
contains the remains of more than
5,000 soldiers from World War One.
It also includes the seven anonymous
soldiers who were not chosen to be
the Unknown Soldier buried in Paris.
From World War Two, more than 600
French soldiers are also buried here.
Citadelle Souterraine de VerdunGrand Verdun - Anne Schwab-Nodée
Underground art
Ad
In Verdun itself, the most visited site is the
Citadelle Souterraine de Verdun which is
a series of fortified underground galleries
originally constructed in the 19th century
near an underground city dug out in the
17th century. By the end of World War
One there were 7kms of galleries. It served
as a refuge, command post and supplies
store. The ceremony designating the
Unknown Soldier who is buried beneath
the Arc de Triomphe was held there.
The visit is via a 35-minute ride in
individual gondolas on rails, which whisk
you around the galleries. You wear an
augmented reality headset, and the real-
life stories of four soldiers are told through
various scenes in the boulangerie, the
medical bays, the ammunition stores,
the kitchens, the officers' mess, the
bunkhouses, the mill, the telecoms centre
(telephones and telegraphs). Up to 10,000
troops lived here during World War One,
and the bread ovens produced 28,000
rations a day. There are smaller exhibits on
the way in and on the way out, completing
the experience. It is cold in the tunnels,
and as you might expect, there is a
lengthy queue for the gondolas. Be
prepared to wait at least half an hour.