Verdun remains inextricably linked with World War One and the battlefield sites draw thousands of visitors every year, but this charming riverside town also has other attractions. Not the least of them is the Quai de Londres. Fringed by around twenty restaurants and cafés, this is the heart of modern Verdun, and the base for big events.
These include Musique et Terrasses (a free popular music festival in July and August), Le Grand Festival (three days of free street theatre, music and entertainment in July), and Le Carnaval Vénitien (in June).
There are electric boat rides on
the Meuse during the summerCamille Florémont
The rebuilding of the Quai de Londres was financed by the city of London after the war, and if you keep an eye out you'll see a British phone box, which has been converted into a mini-library. A stroll along the Quai de Londres, over the Pont Chaussée and along the opposite Quai de la République is very pleasant.
Also, check out the imposing 19th century edifice opposite the Quai de Londres, which used to be an Officers' Mess, and is now the Hôtel Les Jardins du Mess. It has a very civilised bar, and hidden terrace overlooking the back gardens. Both are open to non-residents. Fully renovated in 2016, the hotel also has a very pretty restaurant, which is also open to the public.
Time travel
Explore the Renaissance Château de Thillombois, just half an hour from VerdunChâteau de Thillombois
The Renaissance Château de Thillombois is just a half hour drive south of Verdun, and was extensively remodelled in the 19th century. The interior is fully furnished, and the grounds are laid out in the 'English style' - ie. informally. The association which owns the chateau runs a full programme of events, including musical theatre evenings, dinners in the pitch black dark, a springtime literary festival, a Medieval festival every September, concerts, markets and, for three weekends in November, Saint Nicolas will be presiding over musicians, games, workshops for children, storytelling, and fireworks. The rooms will be decorated for Christmas, and there will be stands and stalls in the courtyard. Works are ongoing to restore the chateau, and if you fall under the spell, be warned. You might find yourself buying a balustrade or becoming a volunteer.
A sweet tooth in Verdun
If you can't resist a sweet treat, then don't miss Dragées Braquier where they make almonds covered in a crisp candy coat. They have an astounding variety of shapes, sizes and colours in their shop. You can even buy them covered in gold leaf. Dragées are most commonly given to guests at christenings and weddings, but obviously can be eaten at other times as well.
The company was formed in 1783, two years after the end of the Franco-Prussian war, by Léon Braquier and Edouard Boivin. They bought the Château de Coulmier and built a vast factory but it was all destroyed during the Battle of Verdun in 1916.
Local sweet treats, Dragées de VerdunART GE - Pierre Defontaine
After the war, the factory was rebuilt and modernised and in 1921 became Les Dragées Braquier. It is still in the same building, and they have a free exhibition explaining the history of the company and the process of making dragées. It is free, takes around 35 minutes, and includes a free tasting. The audio guides are available in English. In the shop, look out for dragées filled with chocolate, or fruit jelly, or nougat, as well as the classic almonds.
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While you're on the sweet trail, don't miss Terra Chocolata, a very different kind of chocolate shop. They have chocolate for diabetics, for a start. Patrick Schoenecker, the owner, is completely passionate about chocolate. He visits the growers, and makes specialist chocolates on the spot. Try his hot chocolate mix, and also his take on Nutella. You can spend a lot of time here, talking about and tasting chocolate before you buy some. And check out his amazing Christmas crèche, entirely made of chocolate.
