Reviving rural France: café culture brings a small Dordogne community together

Legislation to make it easier for people to open small cafés in rural areas, where many villages have no commerce at all, has been introduced by the French government.

Some villages have already taken action, however, and opened their own 'cafés associatifs'. One of them, Comberanche-et-Epeluche near Ribérac in Dordogne, has had one open since 2014. 

"We now have 650 members at Café Pluche," said Celine Morin, president of the association which manages it. 

Annual membership costs €10 for an individual, and €15 for a family. People passing by can join for €2.

The café was set up because Comberanche-et-Epeluche had no shops or bars left open, and today offers members a vast range of creative, sporting, cultural and leisure activities. 

"I remember the first time I came here, they asked me what I wanted to do," said Ms Morin. "So I said chess, and as they didn't have a chess club, they let me set one up." 

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Activities on offer also include opera screenings, cards, board games, language exchange, knitting and sewing, psychiatry, African percussion, civic affairs, folk dancing, gardening, philosophy, a group making clothes for premature babies, yoga, Nordic walking, ballroom dancing, a repair café, a range of keep fit and dance classes, and a book club. 

The Tea Time group meets for nibbles and conversation in both English and French.

There are also regular conferences, exhibitions and shows, and Café Pluche hosts the local Alcoholics Anonymous group, which is bilingual English/French. 

"They meet here, and then all eat together. Obviously, we ensure they have the space to themselves for their sessions."

There are always new groups forming, and as well as the activities they organise regular themed soirées, such as 80s discos, and at least once a month, all year round, there are live concerts and shows. 

Funds come from membership fees, profits from the bar and food service, and grants.

"In the summer months we have a music festival with concerts every Wednesday, which attract up to 500 people,” said Ms Morin. 

“Entrance is free, but when we pass round the hat we usually cover the cost of paying the artists. And we make a profit on the food and drinks we sell. We keep prices low so that everyone can join in. And, of course, we don't employ anyone, which keeps costs down."

Activities which involve a professional teacher, such as keep fit and dance, are paid for by the association, which then asks members to give what they can afford for the classes. 

They also run activities for children on Wednesday afternoons including pottery, circus skills, and a show. 

"We are therefore classed as an espace de vie sociale, which means we get a grant from the Caisse des Allocations Familiales (CAF) – a government body providing financial assistance to people living in France," said Ms Morin.

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The association has succeeded in its aims. "We wanted to give everyone a place to go, a place to meet other people. We wanted to attract people who probably wouldn't go to a classic café. If you go to a classic café alone, you stay alone. But people come here to meet others, play, talk, mend things, and learn things. Here, we immediately get people involved, and we encourage them to lend a hand. Even if they are working during the week, they can come and help out at weekends. 

"Everyone can contribute, even if just by washing up."

Each activity group takes over the whole café during its time slot, leaving three afternoons (Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays between 15.00 and 17.00) when anyone can just drop in for a drink and a chat.

"We are getting more and more English members, which is great, so if any readers live in the area, please do drop in and see us."