The culinary delights of dandelions in France

The term for this time of year, on the farm and in the potager, is the Hungry Gap. Winter produce is running low, and it’s still too early for the delights of spring. In a French kitchen, at this time, my thoughts turn to dandelion.

Botanically, dandelion belongs to the Asteraceae family. The root has culinary applications – it is dried and ground to create a coffee substitute – while the tender leaves of the dandelion are highly valued for salads in France.

Dandelion greens 

These will appear in gardens and markets in early spring, and it is advisable to gather the tender young leaves for eating at this time. Like most winter greens, they can be slightly bitter, so consider pairing them with other mild greens or using them sparingly.

If you are foraging for leaves instead of purchasing them at the market, be absolutely certain of their identification. Additionally, avoid harvesting leaves that have been chemically treated or are near a roadside due to pollution, and wash them thoroughly before consumption.

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The flowers are also used in cooking when they first appear in late spring. They can be made into a jelly called cramaillotte. The texture and flavour resemble honey, so it is sometimes referred to as miel de pissenlit. Like traditional honey, it is said to soothe sore throats.

Another use is to leave the flowers to ferment in a mixture of sugar, oranges, lemons, and sultanas to create dandelion wine (vin de pissenlit). You will rarely find these available commercially, as they are primarily traditional regional specialities.

Read also: Spring is the season for gathering nuts and other delicacies in France

How to use dandelion leaves 

Salade de pissenlit is considerably more popular and accessible, and you may have noticed it on traditional bistro menus when it’s in season. The perfect combination features the leaves coated with hot lardons and pieces of stale country bread fried in the bacon fat, then topped with gently poached eggs.

The yolk seeps into the salad, creating a creamy dressing. This salad is one of the truly seasonal dishes in France, and should you spot it on a menu, it is well worth trying.

Other uses for the leaves: 

• Make a pesto with parsley, a hard grating cheese, hazelnuts, garlic and good-quality sunflower oil 
• Braise with stock, butter and garlic to accompany roast meats 
• Blend into soups with other spring greens like watercress and nettles 
• Add to savoury tarts 
• Wilt in a salad with warm baby potatoes and a mustardy vinaigrette

Read also: Pimp your potage: making the most of French supermarket soups