It began in 1643 when plague swept across the city. In desperation, the authorities promised to pay homage to the Virgin Mary if the city was spared. Ever since, on December 8, which is the feast of the Immaculate Conception, people place candles on their windowsills. This has gradually morphed into full-scale light shows with amazing images and videos projected onto the city's landmarks.
Images are projected onto city landmarksFête des Lumières
The festival attracts 3-4 million visitors every year and security these days is tight. Whereas in days gone by, crowds wandered the streets haphazardly admiring the installations and buying vin chaud from informal sellers who set up tables along the way, these days, the route is tightly controlled by the police who set up barriers and even make pedestrianised streets one-way.
Avoid the crowds by setting off just after darkSteve Gerecke/Fête des Lumières
There are still (licensed) pop-up stalls selling snacks and mulled wine, and you can still spot candles burning on many windowsills. The event is still free. Maps are available from the Tourist Office, and if you want to avoid the worst of the crowds, set off as soon as it is dark.
If you miss an installation, there are usually videos of all of them online.
Lyon during World War Two
Lyon's track record during World War Two is patchy. One of France's most famous resistance heroes, Jean Moulin, was arrested by the Nazis in Lyon and tortured to death by Klaus Barbie, the so-called Butcher of Lyon. Lyon was occupied in June 1942, and more than 4,000 people were killed by SS, and another 75,000 were deported, mainly to Auschwitz.
Although some heroically resisted, many actively collaborated, and even more simply turned a blind eye. The story is unravelled at the Centre d'Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation. (In English as well as French.)
More details can be discovered at the rather chilling Memorial National de la Prison de Montluc, a civilian prison which was taken over by the Nazis during the Occupation. The guided tours are free, but only available in French. There is a leaflet in English.
